Pearl Oyster Bar

The blazing sun heralded the arrival of summer after weeks of rain. Naturally, my thoughts turned to lobster rolls. Since I was not able to go to the beach, I took the F train to the West Village and walked into the much-beloved Pearl Oyster Bar. However, once inside the shellfish mecca, I became distracted by the various delicacies which competed for my attention. Jumbo lump crabcakes, fried oyster rolls... the embarrassment of riches overwhelmed me. After much soul-searching, I finally decided on a golden-brown pan-fried cod fillet on thick toasted bread with caper tartar sauce, red onion and ripe tomato, served with a heap of toothpick-thin shoestring fries. When I remarked upon the capers in the tartar sauce, the friendly waitress offered, "If you want the recipe, you'll find it in this new book just released by chef Rebecca Charles!" I glanced at the blueberry crumble pie recipe; now I can't wait until the blueberries are in season!

Pearl Oyster Bar: 18 Cornelia Street, (212) 691-8211.